Here at Polyhymnia Concepts, I often get asked about what exactly goes into designing and constructing one of our intricate historical or fantasy gowns. From conception to completion, it’s a fascinating process that blends artistry, imagination, and expert technique. I thought I’d give you an inside look by documenting the full creation of a recent custom gown commission from initial sketches to final fitting.
When a client first contacts me about a potential project, the very first step is to have an in-depth consultation to understand their vision down to the smallest details. For this particular piece, my client wanted a Renaissance-inspired ball gown with a dark romantic vibe perfect for the vampire persona she portrays at the local Renaissance Faire. Through phone calls, emails and mood boards, we zeroed in on deep wine and black velvets, damasks and lace for the luxurious look she craved.
Next, I research extensively to incorporate authentic touches into even my fantasy pieces. I immersed myself in images of 16th-century Spanish gown silhouettes and trends. This provides a wealth of inspiration while also ensuring historical cohesion so the final product appears it could exist in the period style-wise. My client requested an emphasis on the elaborate sleeve style of the 1540s, so I focused my attention there.
After compiling a robust trove of reference material, the design process formally begins. I start sketching my imagination, merging historical lines with personal flair from both myself and the client. For this vampire-inspired velvet opulence, I conceived a dramatic black and red color scheme with damask underskirts, a rich velvet overdress slashed to reveal the contrasting fabric beneath, Augsburg-style sleeves punctuated with a “blood drip” beaded design, and lace accents across the deep décolletage bodice and collar.
I submit the initial sketch to the client for feedback. Often this sparks some tweaking – perhaps the neckline plunges a bit too boldly or the sleeves could use more volume. We refine the concept back and forth until both my artistic vision and her taste shine through. With this gown, she was thrilled with the ominous romantic vibe from the jump, giving me the green light to bring the sketch to life in luxurious form.
Now the truly fun part begins – selecting the fabrics! I compiling swatches and samples for my client, stretching velvet in every wine shade imaginable against opulent damasks and delicate meshes. For this project, we settled on a substantial burgundy velvet, damask with dimensional black and ruby paisley embroidery for the underskirt layers, wispy black lace, and lightweight black mesh for the sleeves. With fabrics chosen, I take meticulous measurements and develop a custom pattern sized specifically for my client’s proportions.
Cutting into that first yardage officially kicks off construction. One by one, the pieces take shape as I cut, shape, seam, and fit according to my specialty pattern. I assemble the underskirts first, chocolate brown taffeta rustling between embroidered ruby damask. Next, I position and pin the lace collar in place by hand, gently easing the edges to lie flat across the décolletage. With the layers aligned, I secure it permanently, hand-stitching it softly in place.
I move on to crafting the ornate augmented sleeves, draping mesh, and lining carefully by hand to maintain volume and shape. As I engineer structure, I pay special attention to grain lines and bias cuts – manipulating the fabric’s orientation for maximum drape, flow, and mobility. Once each sleeve fully forms, I embellish it with delicate beaded trim and pearly spikes that catch the light at every turn.
Finally, I sew the lush velvet overdress shell and meticulously hem the scalloped train to graze the floor just so for that striking silhouette. After hours of sculpting, embroidering and hand-detailing, the last step is lacing my client into the finished gown for that breathtaking final reveal. It’s incredible to witness the initial sketch translate into stunning reality – this rich romantic vision coming alive through my hands. I stand back and admire as she inhabits the vampire persona, twirling to transform into a dark queen before my eyes.
And if you think the process ends when a client picks up their custom creation, think again! Part of what I love most about historical costuming is following their journey wearing my pieces at events near and far. I regularly receive photos of brides swirling their skirts under willow trees, warriors posing heroically at medieval battles, or actresses bringing historical icons to life on stage. Nothing brings me more joy than seeing my works of wearable art out living their best lives exactly as intended. It never gets old!
So there you have it – just a snippet of the blood, sweat and velvet that goes into crafting one Polyhymnia gown from first pencil stroke to final bow. I hope it gave you a taste of what a labor of love this process is for me. Interested in embarking on your own custom design journey? Reach out anytime to bring your unique vision to life!